Band of Brothers Tour - September 2013

THE BAND OF BROTHERS EXPERIENCE 2013

How do you begin to explain such an “out of body” experience to those who ask you “How was your trip?”... How do you sum up a once-in-a-lifetime adventure, covering over 3,500 km in 14 days, so that you can properly convey what you have seen?!?!?!

If you combined reading the book BAND OF BROTHERS by Stephen Ambrose with watching the HBO mini-series by the same name multiple times, then you can begin to sense the exhilaration of literally walking, or in our case walking and jogging (when it came to Currahee) in the footsteps of these unique and courageous young men.

Providing you with a tiny slice of what Patrick and I saw and experienced with the following images (Patrick took approximately 2,000 pictures) will give you a small taste of what is still out there to experience, nearly 70 years after these events took place. The hundreds of anecdotes, many of which were gathered directly from the Veterans of the 101^st, added immensely to the experience. Our host and tour director, Jake Powers, is the official historian for Easy Company 506^th P.I.R. of the 101^st Division. He guided us step-by-step and provided the insights that made this a very special, unforgettable event.

There is a lot to be said for “knowing the right people” and having the inside contacts. Here are a few highlights of having the inside scoop. At Brécourt Manor, we were able to walk right up to where the four 105’s were located. and step-by-step experience how they were taken out. The only thing we had to avoid were the land mines (a.k.a. cow poop). We were warmly greeted by the owner, who invited us to tour his farm and gave us a shot of his very own Calvados wine. This is an intimate experience which no other tour groups can provide. There is a very profound monument on the outskirts of the property, but to walk onto the property and look across the field, gives you chills.

This was repeated over and over whether we visited the American cemeteries at Normandy, Margraten, or Luxembourg. Seeing a German cemetery or visiting Dachau, time and again your heart skipped a beat and your senses drifted back to what took place there not so long ago. Many things have changed, but having the proper guidance allowed you to walk and see so much history.

Seeing exactly when then 1^st Lt. Winters hit the ground in Normandy in Ste.-Mere-Eglise, staring at the same, second story window where the MG-42 was firing down on Easy Company on the road to Carentan, or literally walking the same footsteps of the boys on the 1,000 yard patrol is impossible to convey. Standing in the foxholes staring into the village of Foy, like the soldiers did in January of 1945, you can begin to sense the fear they would have crossing an open field to take their objective.

We could go on forever because this is a journey that will remain in our memories for our lifetime. If you are a true historian of the ETO during the Second World War. I urge you to make a trip like this part of your future plans. There were plenty of great museums to visit, personal interactions with locals at every step of the way, and great food to boot. Language is not a barrier, as you can always find someone who speaks English! We highly recommend Band of Brothers Tours.

Bill and Patrick Shea

Day 1: The entrance to Camp Toccoa

The journey begins...Currahee in the background

Three miles up and three miles down!

Atop Currahee

We made it! Touching the plaque

The plaque

Entrance to Camp Taccoa

The stables that the 506th used for barracks in Aldbourne

Day 2: The National Infantry Museum and Soldier Center at Fort Benning, Georgia, USA

One of many Paratrooper displays at Fort Benning

Hermann Goring Reichmarshall Baton

Day 4: Our digs in Normandy, Chateau de Quineville...Rommel stayed here in 1944

The lounge at the Chateau

The Chapel at St. Mere Eglise

Inside the Chapel at St. Mere Eglise

This pasture is the EXACT spot where then Lieutenant Dick Winters landed in St. Mere Eglise

This is the spot in St. Mere Eglise that then Sergeant Carwood Lipton landed

Airborne Museum in St. Mere Eglise - A MUST SEE!!!

Airborne Museum in St. Mere Eglise - A MUST SEE!!

Chapel at Angoville-au-Plain that was used as an aide station

Inside the Chapel ~ blood stains remain on the pews, along with a hole in the ceiling where a mortar came through and, fortunately, didn't explode

The hole in the ceiling from a mortar

Monument at the Chapel in Angoville-au-Plain

The Cathedral at St. Marie du Mont. The Germans had a lookout here that was directing fire on to Utah Beach

WWI (and now WWII) Monument in St. Marie du Mont

Members of the 101st Airborne that liberated St. Marie du Mont by that same monument above

Brecourt Manor

The field where German 105mm guns were firing on to Utah Beach. All four were taken out by the 506th, led by Dick Winters. He received the Distinguished Service Cross for these actions..."Silencing The Guns"

The Monument at Brecourt Manor

The Monument where a C-47 crashed on D-Day, killing all aboard, including C.O. 1st Lieutenant Thomas Meehan and 16 others in Easy Company's HQ Section

Bill and Patrick reflecting upon the Monument Statue for Dick Winters in Normandy

Utah Beach

Memorial at Utah Beach

Dead Man's Corner Museum in Carentan ~ the museum is a must-see!!

Day 5: Command Post for Colonel Robert Cole, 502nd P.I.R. From here, he led a Bayonet Charge now known as "Cole's Charge" for which he was awarded the Medal of Honor.

Road into downtown Carentan, at the end of Purple Heart Lane. The Germans were waiting here for the allies to arrive

This city was heavily fortified. The Germans had a machine gun post in the top left window

Downtown Carentan. The first arch is where Dick Winters was wounded

Bill and Patrick under that infamous arch

Pointe-du-Hoc, many huge bomb craters remain!

Gun emplacement at Pointe-du-Hoc

Pointe-du-Hoc

Bill and Patrick at Pointe-du-Hoc

Omaha Beach

Omaha Beach, panoramic view

Our group on Omaha Beach

Walking up to one of many gun emplacements.

View from that same gun emplacement

Patrick on top of that same gun emplacement, which housed a deadly 75 mm PAK 40.

This wreaked havoc on American landing craft and was knocked out by a Sherman.

Map of Normandy American Cemetery

Normandy American Cemetery, an overpowering picture

A Comrade In Arms Known But To God

Invasion map of Normandy Beaches

Day 6: Memorial in Son, The Netherlands

End of the Drop Zone for the Allied Forces situated between Best and Son. The land owner painted an "X" on the roof of his house to guide pilots to the zone. He also cleared the fields of corn

This is the famous Paulus Farm that was situated in the middle of the Drop Zone

Tour Leader Jake Powers with George Koskimaki, who was General Taylor's Radio Man. He jumped into Son

Our brush with one of the Members of the Greatest Generation, George Koskimaki. He enjoyed hearing about The Ruptured Duck

Monument at Son for Troop Carriers (C-47) and Gliders

Lieutenant Colonel Cole Monument in Best, The Netherlands. He earned the Medal of Honor at Carentan on so-called Purple Heart Lane and known as the "Bayonet Charge". He received the medal posthumously, due to the fact that he was KIA in the vicinity of the monument

The bridge in Son that was Easy Company's objective during Market Garden. The Germans blew up the bridge just before they arrived. Civilians started to repair the bridge and make it ready for use. It’s here where Major Laprade dove into the canal with the pistol in his hands. It’s also where Lieutenant James Diel was thinking to earn his Silver Star, but unfortunately got KIA. It’s also the bridge where the 30th Corps crossed the Wilhelmina Canal on their way up to Arnhem, they came from the left side of the bridge

We did run into a few pigs along the way!!

Day 7: Sign welcoming us and Veterans to Arnhem, The Netherlands

"The Bridge Too Far" in Arnhem

Monument to the heroes on the bridge

Hartenstein Airborne Museum in Arnhem - A MUST-SEE!!

Museum building, Hartenstein House. This Building was also Headquarters of General Roy Urquhart CO of the British 1st Airborne Division

Fitting tribute at Museum to the local people and their suffering

One of several spectacular dioramas at the museum

Schoonderlogt, 2nd Battalion Headquarters, where Dick Winters stayed during the time on the Island, when his was the 2nd Battalion EXO. It's also a sneak peek at what's still to come!

Major Richard Winters at his HQ in Holland, October 1944

Great view of the Farm Manor where then Captain Winters posed for the photo

Our group (note the Paratrooper in the background HA HA!)

Bill, 69 years later, standing in the same spot

Bill greeted by a smiling friend!

Patrick and tour guide Jake Powers

Tribute on bridge at Opheusden, Holland

"Crossroads", this is the field Easy Company crossed and attacked a German Company. Despite a second German Company crossing the dike for reinforcement, the Americans prevailed. This was portrayed in the mini-series with Captain Winters leading the attack

"Crossroads" story

Here is the field where the Germans were stationed. The road is where Winters crossed and encountered a single German soldier. Ironically, this is where he fired his weapon for the last time

Copy of map of area with Dick Winters notes, explaining the attack

Monument at "Crossroads". We could feel the spirit of all of the soldiers that were once there

Day 8: Our visit to the Netherlands American Cemetery and Memorial in Margraten, The Netherlands

Monument and reflecting area

Soldiers from many countries, including these Dutch who had come to reflect on their predecessors

Our conscientious tour guide provided us with flowers and an opportunity to pay tribute to individual soldiers. We were selected to lay flowers at the grave of Lieutenant Colonel Robert G. Cole of "Cole's Charge"

Inside the monument

One of our group member's husband served with the 106th Infantry during the Bulge. Here is a monument in St. Vith, Belgium, honoring their heroism. They suffered heavy losses here. This is approximately 34 miles from our next stop, Bastogne!

Our road into Bastogne was different from what the men saw in December, 1944

This tank, part of the 10th Armored Division, was knocked out around Bastogne and now sits in the Square as a tribute to the sacrifice of the soldiers who fought to liberate Bastogne and Belgium

The 101st Museum in Bastogne

At the museum, one of several dozen great dioramas. A must-see stop on the tour!

Yet another realistic portrayal of what these soldiers endured

Our accommodations at the Hotel Melba in Bastogne were 'slightly' better than what was offered in December 1944!

The view from our private deck!

Day 9: Bastogne Barracks, where the 101st were headquartered, about 6km from Foy

Building where the Headquarters was located

While the Troops were freezing and starving less than 6KM away, the Headquarters Staff enjoyed a hot Christmas meal

An incredible diorama depicting the scene in the exact same location

Here is the exact nook where the famous "NUTS" response was typed...want to know the real story? Ask us!

There were several more interior displays which accurately depicted this historical event

Some of the weaponry that was displayed at the Bastogne

A grouping of relics (both United States and Axis) dug from around the Bastogne area

More relics

The Vehicle Restoration Center displayed multiple, impressive vehicles of every shape and description

Vehicle Restoration Center

Vehicle Restoration Center, one of the dozens of tanks and armored vehicles

Too bad, Bill was disappointed that this Hertzer wouldn't fit into his luggage!

The Barracks at Bastogne

Bois Jacques, a.k.a. Jack's Wood, in Foy, which is a Village of Bastogne

A significant monument commemorating those who served, including Easy Company

"May the world never forget"

These are part of the "1,000 Yard Patrol" through the Bois Jacques

Put yourself here in December '44 through January '45

Talk about fate ~ once we left the woods, we encountered two young Airmen. The Sergeant on the right was taking his oath, having re-enlisted for six more years. The Captain on the left...his name is WINTER!

A group photo, we were all very proud to be a part of this impromptu occasion

Looking through the woods across the field on to the Village of Foy, just as the boys did

A profound moment

Fox holes in Bois Jacques, Foy

Not all monuments have to be fancy...

Looking back across the field from the Village of Foy to where the boys attacked from

Here is the field and road through Foy that Ronald Speirs ran through German lines to hook up with other Units...then proceeded to run back!

This window (center top), is where a German sniper had been firing onto United States Troops. Shifty Powers took care of that!

Our tour guide, Jake Powers, relates the tragedy regarding five wounded GI's, who were found murdered when this area was re-taken

The Chapel in Foy, September 2013

That same Chapel in January 1945

A German cemetery in Foy

The Chapel at the German cemetery

The lines of headstones at the German cemetery

Most have six or more soldiers buried in one spot, including unknowns

The church in the Village of Noville, Bastogne, which is 7 miles Northeast of Foy

A historical marker with a very famous photograph

Showing Major Winters (5:00) going over battle plans, with the same church at the top left of the photo

Bill standing in the same spot as the Major in the above photograph

"Le Nut's" Cafe in Bastogne Square...YUM!!

The Municipality of Houffalize, a strategic location during the Bulge. Monty and Patton met here in a counter-attack maneuver against the Germans

This Panther V was wreaking havoc on the town and couldn't be stopped - until we blew out a bridge while it was crossing!

It now resides downtown on display

Panzerkampfwagen V Panther ausfuhrung G. in Houffalize

Luxembourg American Cemetery and Memorial

The Memorial at Luxembourg

Headstones in Luxembourg

Luxembourg

Alex Penkala, who was killed in a foxhole in Foy during the Bulge

Warren "Skip" Muck was killed at the same time as his good friend Penkala

Bill at the grave of General George S. Patton

Day 10: Next stop, Haguenau, France, in the Northeast Alsace Region. It was occupied during WWII by Germany but eventually returned to France in early 1945 after the Americans, including the 506th, cleared and regained the city

St. Georges Church in Haguenau

Fishers Gate, Haguenau

This is the river in Haguenau that Easy Company was ordered to cross and capture enemies to make them talk. Here is where young Lieutenant Jones volunteered to lead the patrol but Winters declined, instead, allowing him to take part. It is also where Private Eugene Jackson was killed by a malfunctioning grenade. The house in the background is where the Germans were, and the Americans were sent in to take P.O.W.s.

Another shot of the river

This house across the river is where an Easy Company Veteran recalls a German machine gun was positioned in the top window

The tour group. The river runs under a bridge behind us

Day 11: Dachau, Germany

Bill at the iconic gate...

Dachau entrance

Main grounds at Dachau

Site of barracks at Dachau

Old picture of the barracks

A memorial at Dachau

Another memorial at Dachau

Perimeter barriers at Dachau. Beyond the trench (which was then a moat) was "The Kill Zone"!

Perimeter barriers at Dachau

Perimeter barriers at Dachau with one of many guard towers in background

Crematorium

The Autobahn ~ unfortunately this section has a speed limit!

Day 12: This is going to be GREAT!!

There is not enough film in the world to document the beauty of this area

The view from our hotel in Berchtesgaden. Look closely at the mountain in the center...just to the left of the peak is a building that you all may recognize

Views like this are everywhere you look!

The square in Berchtesgaden

The railroad station in Berchtesgaden. The flag has been modified since 1945

The swastika has been removed!

Where do you suppose these tracks originally went?

...HERE!! This tunnel is where the personal cars of Hitler and Goring were stored and were protected. It now sees duty as storage for the Department of Public Works

Here is the other end of the tunnel

A closer view of the other end of the tunnel

The tracks extended to who knows where!

The cemetery at Berchtesgaden featured lots of graves just like this, many of them Mountain Troopers!

Another soldier

Our guide brought us to this building in Unterstein for a very good reason!

Bill is pointing to the exact spot that once had a sign stating this was the location of a very special art exhibit

This EXACT sign is now in Bill's personal collection!

It is literally unchanged, except the door. We were even able to find holes in the beams from the hooks that were used to hang this banner. Once inside, we approached the hotel proprietor and his associate who were absolutely amazed to see this old picture of his establishment. they had no idea about this part of the building's history!

We then showed him this picture, and he replied "FOLLOW ME!!"

He brought us to this room. This is the EXACT spot where that photo was taken 68 years ago! The only change is the addition of the built-in bench that Patrick is sitting on. I even found the hole in the paneling where the picture once hung (over the shoulder of Lieutenant Moore in the picture)

On our way up the Kehlstein Mountain, we made a quick stop at the Hotel Zum Turken, but were not warmly greeted...

This is the sentry gate outside the Hotel Zum Turken

This road, just below the Turken, once led to the Berghof, Guest House, Garage and Platterhof

This spot once held another guard house, a few honored yards from the Turken. it signified the entrance to the Fuhrer area

This building stands on the grounds and is modeled after the original guest house. It is now a documentation center

A view from the Guest House

The entrance to a newly-unearthed section of the bunker by the Guest House/Platterhof

The tunnel leading into the bunker system

This is where part of the ventilation system was located inside the bunker

Inside the bunker

Machine gun posts inside the bunker

These stairs inside the bunker led to the Platterhof. The machine gun post guarded this area

This path led to the Berghof

This is in the Berghof area

Also in the Berghof area

Another photo of the Berghof area

This is also taken in the Berghof area

The Berghof area

Also in the Berghof area

Lookie what lurks above the clouds!

Patrick and Steve point to the woods where the Berghof once stood

The bus ride up to the Eagle's Nest

Another view from the bus

The views are simply amazing!

The famous tunnel that leads to the elevator which brings us to our destination!

Headed to the elevator!

Another perspective of the tunnel leading to the elevator

The Kehlsteinhaus, a.k.a. "Eagle's Nest"

At an elevation of just over 6,000 feet, you are literally above the clouds!

Overlooking Berchtesgaden

Outside, the seating is prime!

The birds love it too!

Don't look down!

To say the view is breath-taking would be an understatement

The famous fireplace inside the main room of "The Eagle's Nest". There seems to be some chips missing from the marble. Those GI's wanted "a piece of history"

The design on the back of the fireplace. This was a gift from El Duce in 1938

Inside the Kehlsteinhaus back in 1945

That same room, today

It is a popular restaurant with tourists!

Bill with the Kehlsteinhaus in the background

Eva Braun with the Kehlsteinhaus in the background

Bill and Patrick with a monument close to the summit

Bill, Tour Guide Jake and Steve ready to take the elevator 124 meters back down to the tunnel. Note the marble surrounding the elevator is the same as used in the fireplace!

A good picture of the elevator

The entrance to the elevator, by the tunnel

Day 13: Welcome to Kaprun, Austria! This is where Easy Company finished it's time after the war

This field is where tens of thousands of prisoners, etc. were processed. It is the site where the German General addressed his Troops in the series, as well as where Easy relaxed and played baseball

This hotel, about 1 km from the field, is where Easy had its Headquarters

This building is on the site where Winters had his Headquarters

Next stop, 10 km away!!

Zell am See

The Grand Hotel on Zell am See. There were many lavish parties held here! Many of you will know the significance of the small dock located at the right front corner of the hotel...

Here is where Winters got in his morning swims!

Bill's ready to dive in too ~ must see some relics!

The large building on the left is where Frau Goring was held after the war

Casino Salzburg

...a.k.a. Schloss Klessheim. This location became the repository of a tremendous cache of decorations in 1945. Want more details? Just as us!

The huge eagles were put up in 1938 and have been modified since

Schloss Klessheim

Day 14: The long flight home was uneventful...we had an absolutely spectacular time and would like to thank Jake Powers for making it happen!
GOD BLESS OUR VETERANS!

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